Mechanical wounding is the first step in triggering resin, and there are three common approaches. Each has its purpose, advantages, and risks.
Drilling (Most Common & Controlled)
What It Is:
- Small holes are drilled into the trunk or branches.
Purpose:
- Opens the wood for microbial entry
- Triggers the tree’s wound response
Farmer Guidelines:
- Hole depth: 2–3 cm
- Hole diameter: 5–8 mm
- Spacing: 10–15 cm apart
- Height: 30–150 cm from ground
- Use clean, sharp drill bits
Benefits:
✔ Controlled and precise
✔ Minimal tree damage if done correctly
Risks:
✘ Too many holes → vascular blockage → tree death
✘ Deep drilling → kills inner wood
Nailing
What It Is:
- Iron or wooden nails hammered into the trunk.
Purpose:
- Creates small injury points
- Adds long-term irritation (rust, minor infection)
Benefits:
✔ Easy and inexpensive
✔ Continuous stress if nails are left in place
Risks:
✘ Hard to control depth
✘ Can damage tree if too many nails
✘ May complicate future harvesting
Bark Removal / Stripping
What It Is:
- Small sections of bark are removed from the trunk or branch.
Purpose:
- Exposes cambium (living layer)
- Directly stresses the tree
- Allows natural microbes to enter
Benefits:
✔ Exposes more wood for microbial invasion
Risks:
✘ High chance of infection
✘ Can kill tree if overdone
✘ Leaves large scars → weakens tree
Comparison Table (Farmer-Friendly)
| Method | Control | Resin Response | Risk |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drilling | High | Medium–High | Low–Medium |
| Nailing | Medium | Medium | Medium |
| Bark Removal | Low | Medium–High | High |
Farmer Tips for Mechanical Wounding
✔ Always start with healthy trees
✔ Do not combine all methods excessively
✔ Use clean tools to prevent unwanted infection
✔ Combine wounding with microbial inoculation or chemical elicitors for best results
✔ Leave time for resin to develop before checking
Farmer Key Message
“Wounding starts the process — but care and patience create valuable resin.”